A Mugen That Needs a Good Home

Hey 1G fans!  You all need to see this.  I haven't done classifieds on the blog before, but if it means making sure another 1G stays in the care of an owner who can appreciate it, I'll do it (no questions asked).  Also, the seller is a long time Red Pepper Racing member.  He's asking an absurdly low price for what he's offering, and when you start to get into prices 5k or below, the chances of the car falling into the wrong hands are higher.  I'm hoping that a little more exposure to the 1st gen community will stir up some interest in this great car.

Here are the details from the seller:

I bought this car in 2002 as a stock Si.  Soon after I replaced the engine and trans with a imported Japanese B16A drive-train.  About a year after that I turbocharged it (11psi) and started adding more performance parts.  In 2004 I came across the rare 9 piece Mugen body kit and later had it installed, painted, and put in the square 1985 headlights to fit it.  I had the bottom of the front bumper rebuilt because it had been destroyed over 20 years by previous owners.  It was my daily driver until about 2008 when I started a family and it became the toy that sat in the backyard collecting dust.  During the building process all new parts were used like clutch, cables, ball joints and countless other parts.  The Zdyne ecu is completely programmable and I can provide the software so you can change air/fuel maps, vtec activation, clutch cut, rev limit and much more via laptop.   It's been to the drag strip once and just spun the tires through 3 gears, never got a chance to put slicks on it.  I'm moving soon and can't take it with me.  I will take pictures of anything you want to see better and answer any question you may have.  It still runs and drives fine.  You can drive it to wherever it needs to go or you can arrange shipping.

Car specifications:

Genuine Mugen/Moon Craft 9 peice body kit with front emblem
Turbocharged B16A on Zdyne Gold ECU
Comp cams & springs
AEBS intake manifold
Water to air intercooling
Apexi SAFC II
3 bar map sensor
Place racing mounts
Aluminum radiator
Raxles axles
28mm torsion bars
Adjustable rear coils
Konig feather wheels
Integra swaybar
Integra disc front and rear
Drilled/slotted rotors
ARP front lug studs
Momo steering wheel
Relocated battery with Hella kill switch
Racing seats in synthetic leather
Legal DOM cage with Takata belts
Rust free Arizona car
Matching Kumho Ecsta tires

How often will you find a 1st generation CRX with a well built JDM B16 Turbo swap, AND an actual Mugen body kit that is for sale for $5000...? Exactly.  Let's keep this one in the family so that it can be enjoyed for years to come!

If interested, contact Ryan
(The car is located in Arizona)

[NEW] Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOAvO_N28fk&noredirect=1

Read More

Tech Tip: Mud Flap Refresh

Here is my first 'Tech Tip', the Mud Flap Refresh.  We've all seen this problem on the first gen CRX, mud flaps that are sun-faded, covered in 30 years of caked dirt, and are covered in scuffs and gouges.  Some flaps are just too far gone to really refresh, especially if the rubber is starting to crack, but most are savable.  After a little trial and error, I found a good way to bring old mud flaps back to life, and here's how:

Step 1:
Soak the mud flaps in a bucket of Simple Green cleaner and water.  Be liberal with the Simple Green, the more you add the faster the dirt comes off.  Three to four hours soak time is usually all you need, but if the dirt still gives you a hard time, soak them for a couple more hours.

Step 2:
Take them out of the Simple Green solution and scrub them down with a plastic brush.  Rinse periodically to check your progress.  If the solution has broken the dirt down enough, the filth should come right off.

Step 3:
Take a razor blade or a sharp knife and trim off the burrs and chunks of rubber that are sticking out.  Then use a fine file to smooth out abraded edges of the flap.  Don't go crazy with the file though, the rubber is soft and will come off easily.

Step 4:
Wet sand all the exposed surfaces with 400-600 grit sand paper until the surface starts to look uniform.  Be sure to sand areas evenly.  Make sure you make long swipes to avoid over-sanding in one area.  Wiped sanded surface regularly with a dry cloth to check your progress.

Step 5:
Once the surface looks smooth and most of the pock marks and scuffs are gone, switch to 1000 grit sand paper and wet sand the exposed surfaces again.  Again, make sure this is done evenly, and check your progress regularly.

Step 6:
Clean and dry the sanded surfaces, and then rub protectant (I use Mothers Back to Black) onto the mud flap to get a nice black sheen.  You should be pleased with the results.  You will have to continue to apply protectant to the mud flaps because it does wear off.

BEFORE:

AFTER: (Note, this image was taken before protectant was applied)

Read More